Me and my friend Rob decided to have a UK trad climbing trip down south. Shockingly I haven't done hardly any trad down in South Wales and Devon/Cornwall.
First stop was Pembroke, I haven't done much/any limestone trad climbing. First route I did was Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), i got stuck for ages at the end of the traverse, it must of been about half an hour I was stood there. Then literally stepped a couple of steps to the right and found some good holds!! Amazing route.
We were on a three star routes mission, so next we abseiled into Huntersman and I did Bloody Sunday (E4 6a). The bottom was scary, really green and slippery and gear was tricky to place. The route felt easier than pleasure dome though!
We were meant to stay in pembroke for about 4 or 5 days but were unlucky with the weather, managed to get one more days climbing in at Mother Carey's Kitchen. I seconded Rock Idol (E1) and onsighted Zeppelin (E3 6a) both amazing routes. Then I onsighted Just Cling On (E5 6a), this route is on space face an slightly overhanging wall. It was more like a 7a+ sport route, big holds on a steep wall with in-situe threads... then it rained...alot.
So we sacked it to Bristol to stay with a friend for the night and got a bit of climbing done in the Avon gorge that afternoon. Next morning we headed to Cornwall where it was raining so much that the water was bubbling out of the drains. Finally the next day it had stopped raining and the sun was shining, we met up with another friend called Rob and headed down to Sharpnose.
We did the most amazing E2 in the morning called Out of the Blue. Then we walked round to the main 'fin' which is awesome, its only about a couple of metres wide in some parts, and starts slightly slabbly and gradually curves so at the top it is slightly overhanging.
I onsighted a couple of routes here before the tide came in, I did Fay (E4 6a) and Pacemaker (E5 6a). Next day we went to Pentire Head which was pretty licheny and damp, we did an E3 called Eroica then went over to Berryhead and did some DWS for a few days which was cool!
A big thanks to Rob Lamey for allow us to use these images of Katy in action.
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