Katie’s road trip report

Me and my friend Rob decided to have a UK trad climbing trip down south. Shockingly I haven't done hardly any trad down in South Wales and Devon/Cornwall.
First stop was Pembroke, I haven't done much/any limestone trad climbing. First route I did was Pleasure Dome (E3 5c), i got stuck for ages at the end of the traverse, it must of been about half an hour I was stood there. Then literally stepped a couple of steps to the right and found some good holds!! Amazing route.
We were on a three star routes mission, so next we abseiled into Huntersman and I did Bloody Sunday (E4 6a). The bottom was scary, really green and slippery and gear was tricky to place. The route felt easier than pleasure dome though!

We were meant to stay in pembroke for about 4 or 5 days but were unlucky with the weather, managed to get one more days climbing in at Mother Carey's Kitchen. I seconded Rock Idol (E1) and onsighted Zeppelin (E3 6a) both amazing routes. Then I onsighted Just Cling On (E5 6a), this route is on space face an slightly overhanging wall. It was more like a 7a+ sport route, big holds on a steep wall with in-situe threads... then it rained...alot.


So we sacked it to Bristol to stay with a friend for the night and got a bit of climbing done in the Avon gorge that afternoon. Next morning we headed to Cornwall where it was raining so much that the water was bubbling out of the drains. Finally the next day it had stopped raining and the sun was shining, we met up with another friend called Rob and headed down to Sharpnose.

We did the most amazing E2 in the morning called Out of the Blue. Then we walked round to the main 'fin' which is awesome, its only about a couple of metres wide in some parts, and starts slightly slabbly and gradually curves so at the top it is slightly overhanging.

I onsighted a couple of routes here before the tide came in, I did Fay (E4 6a) and Pacemaker (E5 6a). Next day we went to Pentire Head which was pretty licheny and damp, we did an E3 called Eroica then went over to Berryhead and did some DWS for a few days which was cool!

A big thanks to Rob Lamey for allow us to use these images of Katy in action.

Come meet Lu and Steve at Kendal Film Festival

Marmot is offering the chance for all climbers attending Kendal Mountain Film Festival to come and meet Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer up front and personal.

Get your picture taken with them, pick their brains about route choice or simply just chat with the UK's best male and female climbers.

Lucy and Steve can be found in the 'Planet Fear' retail tent/climbers interview booth on Saturday 21st of November between 11am – 12pm and 3pm - 4pm.

FREE CLIMBING POSTERS signed by Lucy and Steve for everybody who comes to greet them in the retail tent.

Don't Miss Out!

Gritstone Friction at its best!

The cold winter conditions seem to have finally kicked which means that the friction on Gritstone can only get better.

Grab the bouldering matt, rub your climbing shoes until they squeak and trust that friction baby!

(Image Credit: Tim Glasby: Climber Lucy Creamer)

Ricky goes to Font

And relief…I can climb again.

Basically the mild insanity that was starting to set in is now gone. Three months off climbing altogether since I tweeked my finger. The longest continuous break I've had in what feels like a long time. I know that’s not a very long time in the grand scheme of things, but it felt slightly epic at times. Missed out on climbing some things that I’d been trying but my main fear was that my finger might never ever ever get better. Obviously this was completely irrational.

Went to Font not expecting to climb, but when I got there, I found those little slopes helped my tweeky finger. It was class. I've always had a soft spot for font. It was my first climbing holiday 'sans' folks when I was 16. I've some funny memories of that place. Went back ever year for the next 4 years then sort off forgot about it.

So to go back there after having a wee break was just perfect. Climbed lots of classics and messed about in that social little forest. I love the place. Had a slight epic getting back to the airport which resulted in Craigy leaving a bottle of urine in the hire car.

Been back a few weeks now and been working 9-5 doing access work in the City Centre. My finger feels like it’s getting better now. Just going to be aware of it and start getting back slowly onto my some lines that I’ve been thinking about.